The surfing trip last weekend was my most physically taxing so far. It's surfing season now so the waves are bigger - about 5-6 feet, and I used the shortest longboard I could find - a 7'6" - so that I could practice and train for eventually migrating to using shortboards.
The new surfing conditions and the adjustments I have to make for the length of the board means that I get more washouts than long rides, and the huge waves made it more difficult to paddle back about 50-70 meters out where I can catch the waves. Getting slammed ever few seconds by the crashing waves made paddling back a "two steps forward, one step back" sort of thing really. Since I surfed for 2 hours at a time, "pooped" would be the accurate word to describe my physical state after each session.
Between downtime, I wandered around the beach to take some pics and see the sights. I stumbled upon a photoshoot for pageant contestants (pageant will be held on the 25th), which is a welcome sight to see on the beach.
1 comment:
Nice pic, Kin. I hope to try surfing someday. I'm just afraid of sharks. I look yummy and a little overweight. Maybe I'll a bigger board... :]
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